ONE MAN, ONE CRAFT – IS THIS SPAIN’S LAST REAL SHIPWRIGHT

Good friends Pauline and Tim Evill escaped the rain and cold of NZ and have been mooching around Europe. Tim dropped me a note about a famous old boat builder known as Pepe de Pacho, in Castropol in Asturias, northern Spain who was the oldest member of a family of wooden boat builders that had been working on the Rio EO from the same tiny boatyard for almost one hundred years. 

After a visit to the boatyard, where no one was home, he headed to the marina and managed to track down the old man after much detective work. It was a wonderful experience. A asked Tim to pull a story together – which today we great to share. 

In Tim’s words – “As we travelled along the magnificent coast of Asturias, passing one beautiful seaside town after the other, I decided to go looking for a legendary character whom I had read was revered as the last traditional shipwright in the area—Pepe de Pacho. After numerous false forays and clumsy attempts with Google Translate, we finally fell upon a group of salty sea dogs who got on the case for me, called around, found Pepe at home having lunch and wrangled an invitation to the great man’s house. 

Now retired from building full-size boats, Pepe de Pacho or Pepe as he is known, turned his talents to the most intricately detailed model boat building. The exquisite samples of his work are now displayed in part of his home in a small museum. There, he continues to build his intricate wooden models and keeps the tradition alive in miniature. 

When a couple of curious Kiwis suddenly turned up armed with nothing more than eagerness and spanglish he was extraordinarily magnanimous and generous with his time—even though he spoke barely a word of English. With a permanent smile,he took his time to show us around whilst describing the history of the original of each model whilst I smiled and nodded and sadly caught only about a tenth of what he regaled me with.

After about an hour of awe struck admiration of his entire collection of over 90 boats, we shook hands, posed for photos and bid a fond farewell to Pepe and his lovely wife. A modest man of immense talent and irreplaceable knowledge and craftsmanship. 

As we left Pepe advised us to go and learn Spanish and come back again! Every boat has its own story, he said, and without the language, we’re missing too much history.”

Below we have the story of Pepe’s very salty life – its a great tale, I hope you enjoy the read. (as always you can enlarge the photos by clicking on them)

Pepe de Pacho: The Soul of the Asturias Boatbuilding

Tucked along the estuarial shores of the Río Eo in Asturias lies a living relic of Spain’s maritime past—not in a grand museum, but in the humble home of Pepe de Pacho, one of the last true carpinteros de ribera, or traditional boatbuilders, in the region. Born José Félix González Vijande in 1946 in the coastal town of Piñera (Castropol), Pepe inherited more than a family name—he inherited a calling.

Roots in the Ría del Eo

Pepe’s journey into the world of boats began not in a classroom but at the workbench. His father, Marcelino “Pacho” González, established Astilleros Pacho in 1944—a modest shipyard that would become the heart of a multi-generational tradition. By the age of 14, Pepe was apprenticing alongside his brother Carlos, shaping timber and learning the rhythms of the tides and the wood grain under his hands. The workshop, later relocated to Berbesa on the Eo estuary, became a vital node in a once-bustling network of small boatyards lining the Asturian coast.

Throughout the mid-20th century, the Pacho yard built robust wooden vessels for fishing fleets from Galicia to the Basque Country. The craft they were most famous for were the handbuilt, Lateen sailed ‘Pacho’ boats. 6 metres long traditional Cantabrian sailing boats with a rounded hull and folding centreboard that have become the favourite class racing boat of the region. These weren’t just pleasure boats—they were lifelines for coastal communities and the main form of local transport carrying salt, wine and produce for centuries.

Reputation for Mastery

Pepe earned a quiet but steadfast reputation as a craftsman of integrity. Among those in the know his boats were prized and desired for being incredibly seaworthy and superbly built. He possessed an intuitive understanding of how wood moved with water. Colleagues often noted how he could “read” the timber—knowing by touch alone if a beam would flex too much under pressure or hold fast in a swell.

But it wasn’t just skill with tools that defined him. It was his dedication to keeping the traditions of Asturian boatbuilding alive in an era increasingly dominated by fiberglass and mechanization.

A Shift to Miniature, Not to Retirement

When Pepe finally retired from full-size boatbuilding in the 1990s, many assumed he would quietly fade from the maritime scene. Instead, he pivoted into an entirely new phase of artistry: the construction of model boats, each one a precise and poetic tribute to the vessels he once launched into the Cantabrian Sea as well as noteworthy craft from all over the world.

“I retired many years ago, and these are the only boats I build. All my life I worked in the shipyard founded by my father, Marcelino, known as ‘Pacho’. Now it’s my nephew Martín, who’s in charge of it,” explains Pepe as he shows us each of these scale replicas of ships that once left his shipyard, some of which can still be seen sailing the Eo estuary. 

Using the same materials—local chestnut, pine, iroko—and the same techniques, Pepe began to produce handcrafted miniatures that mirrored real historical ships down to the finest plank and rivet. His first model, built in 1977, was merely a curiosity. But in retirement, he dove into the practice in earnest, creating over 90 unique pieces, many of them now on display in a personal museum in his home. The construction process is exactly the same as that followed in the construction of a real boat: it begins with the keel, placing the frames, fixing the stem and sternpost and nailing the sheathing planks, continuing with all the elements that go in the interior and from the deck upwards, especially the rigging and sails, made by the no less skilled hands than those of his wife Mirita

These models aren’t toys—they are scaled time capsules. From traditional fishing boats and rowboats to, English Tugboats and legendary schooners like El Industrial, Pepe’s work captures an exact scale model of history in each perfect centimeter of wood and rigging. Every curve tells a story, and every example is the result of countless hours of painstaking labor. 

What a pleasure it was to meet Pepe who is understandably proud of his incredible body of work, and sustifiably so. But he was also so delightfully humble when I praised his astounding craftsmanship and meticulous work. Pepe is always eager to share his passion for boats big and small and anyone who wants to see his ‘museum’ here, at his home, just has to let him know before coming. Visits are free. Good luck.

A Legacy Beyond the Eo

Though he remains modest, Pepe has quietly become internationally respected in maritime heritage circles. His models have been featured in exhibitions, publications, and even cataloged in a book authored by his brother-in-law, Ignacio Vares. His daughter Aida created a website to showcase the collection, ensuring these vessels—both large and small—remain accessible to future generations.

Local efforts to preserve his legacy continue. The town of Castropol is preparing a new edition of the book chronicling his work, recognizing not just Pepe’s craftsmanship but his cultural importance as a living link to an endangered maritime tradition that fortunatley still lives on, in the capable hands of Pacho’s nephew at the same little shipyard on the banks of the Rio Eo where little has changed for one hundred years. 

For more details, see: https://astillerospacho.com/inicio/ https://www.guiarepsol.com/es/viajar/nos-gusta/carpinteria-nautica-artesanal-visita-al-taller-de-castropol-asturias/ https://pepedepacho.wixsite.com/maquetas/maquetas